The Santa Ynez Valley: One of My Favorite Journeys
By Peter Trent
Founder & Luxury Travel Advisor, Badini & Trent
Courtesy of The Inn at Mattei’s Tavern
After traveling to more than forty countries across seven continents, people often ask me where I go when I need to escape.
The answer is surprisingly simple.
I drive forty-five minutes north from my home in Santa Barbara.
Crossing San Marcos Pass, the Pacific fades from view and the landscape begins to change. The marine air gives way to warm sunshine. Oak trees replace palms. Vineyards stretch across rolling hillsides. By the time I descend into the Santa Ynez Valley, it feels as though I have traveled much farther than the distance suggests.
No place better captures the story of Santa Ynez wine country than Mattei's Tavern.
Courtesy of The Inn at Mattei’s Tavern
Courtesy of The Inn at Mattei’s Tavern
The story begins in 1886 when Swiss immigrant Felix Mattei established a hotel, tavern, and stagecoach stop along the route connecting Santa Barbara with the Santa Ynez Valley. The arrival of the railroad transformed the property into the social heart of Santa Ynez wine country. Ranchers, travelers, merchants, and eventually Hollywood celebrities all passed through its doors. Through Prohibition, changing fortunes, and more than a century of California history, Mattei's remained woven into the fabric of the community.
A few years ago, the property entered a new chapter when Auberge Resorts Collection undertook a meticulous restoration. Rather than reimagining Mattei's, Auberge honored it. The historic buildings were preserved, the character carefully protected, and modern comforts thoughtfully integrated.
The result is the property feels luxurious without feeling manufactured. It feels as though it has evolved naturally over generations rather than having been created all at once. Rather than building a resort that could exist anywhere, Auberge burnished a historic landmark into the gem it is today.
In my view, it is the finest place to stay in the Santa Ynez Valley. It’s not because it is the newest or the grandest, but because it feels inseparable from the story of the place itself.
Yet for all of its history and charm, Mattei's greatest asset may be its location.
Step outside the resort and you are immediately immersed in Los Olivos, one of the most charming towns in California wine country. Centered around its iconic flagpole standing in the middle of Grand Avenue, Los Olivos feels delightfully authentic.
Los Olivos rewards aimless exploration. One moment you may find yourself browsing an art gallery, the next sampling wine at a tasting room, and then wandering into Jedlicka's Saddlery, where boots, bridles, and handcrafted leather goods are a reminder that this is still ranch country. Before long you've discovered a hidden courtyard that invites you to sit a little longer than you intended. It is one of those places where you glance at your watch and realize three hours have somehow slipped away.
One of my favorite stops is J Woeste. Part garden shop, part gift boutique, and part celebration of pure whimsy, it feels as though someone took an ordinary nursery and transformed it into something unexpectedly magical. Creativity, charm, and just the right touch of eccentricity are tucked into every corner. Even visitors with no interest in gardening often find themselves wandering the displays far longer than they expected.
A few steps away, Carhartt Family Wines offers one of the town's great gathering places. Its expansive patio has a way of bringing people together. Even if you arrive knowing no one, there is a good chance you will leave having shared a conversation with someone new. On weekends, musicians often appear, glasses are raised, laughter drifts across the street, and a celebratory atmosphere settles over Los Olivos.
What makes Los Olivos special, however, is its restraint. It understands that charm doesn't need to announce itself
For a deeper immersion in the Valley’s charms, venture beyond town.
Demetria Estate remains one of my favorite experiences. Reached by a winding drive through the hills above Foxen Canyon, the winery feels wonderfully removed from the world below. Guests are encouraged to bring a picnic, and there may be no better way to spend an afternoon than sharing lunch with friends while overlooking endless rows of vines and oak-covered hillsides. Named after owner John Zahoudanis's daughter, Demetria, herself named for the Greek goddess of the harvest, the estate reflects the family's lifelong dream of creating a vineyard.
Courtesty Presqu’ile Winery
Presqu'ile offers an entirely different expression of Santa Ynez wine country. The stunning contemporary winery (named a Top Ten Most Beautiful Winery in California by Conde’ Nast Traveler) sits atop a hill with sweeping views but the food alone is worth the visit. Executive Chef Julie Simon, who was born in Paris and raised in southwest France, oversees both the kitchen and the estate's organic garden, creating seasonal dishes that celebrate exceptional ingredients rather than unnecessary complexity. Her celebrated Chef's Mezze experience arrives as a beautifully presented collection of shared plates, inviting guests to pass, sample, and discover new combinations with each bite. The presentation is almost too beautiful to disturb, though that hesitation rarely lasts long. The wines are excellent, but together they become something greater than the sum of their parts.
The Santa Ynez Valley is best experienced without a rigid itinerary. Some of my favorite afternoons begin in Los Olivos and simply unfold from there. A recommendation from a local, a road that looks interesting, or a tasting room that wasn't part of the original plan often leads to the most memorable discoveries.
Courtesy Foxen Winery
As Foxen Canyon Road winds through vineyards, ranches, and rolling countryside, it offers the sort of scenery that reminds visitors why this region became one of California's premier wine destinations. Along the route sits one of my favorite landmarks in the area: the original Foxen tasting room, affectionately known as "the Shack." Equal parts roadside outpost and local institution, it serves as a reminder that great wine doesn't always require grand architecture or elaborate ceremony.
That spirit seems to run throughout the valley. So many of the people who have shaped this place came here looking for something different, a slower pace, a new challenge, or the opportunity to build something on their own terms.
Courtesy of Matt Morris Films | Bell’s
Bell’s in Los Alamos is a perfect example. Long before it became one of California's most celebrated restaurants, Daisy Ryan and Greg Ryan had already built remarkable careers. They met while working at Per Se in New York before continuing their careers in Los Angeles and Austin. Daisy, however, grew up in the Santa Ynez Valley, and the couple ultimately chose to return to the Central Coast to build the kind of restaurant they truly wanted to own. Bell's has since earned a Michelin star, while their sister restaurant, Bar Le Côte in Los Olivos, has become one of the areas most sought-after seafood destinations. Their dining rooms reflect the valley itself. Casual, welcoming, and free of pretension.
Courtesy Bob’s Well Bread
That same spirit of authenticity can be found at Bob's Well Bread. Long before Bob Oswaks became one of California's most respected bakers, he spent decades as a successful television executive in Hollywood. When he decided to pursue bread, he approached it with remarkable determination, enrolling in virtually every artisan baking course offered by the San Francisco Baking Institute before opening his first bakery in a lovingly restored 1920s service station in Los Alamos. The Ballard café followed later, but the pursuit of craftsmanship remains the same. Sit beneath the shade trees on the patio with a morning pastry, and it's easy to understand why Bob's has become a destination in its own right.
What strikes me is that neither Bob Oswaks nor Daisy and Greg Ryan came here because it was the obvious place to build a nationally recognized bakery or restaurant. They came because they were looking for something different. In the Santa Ynez Valley they found the freedom to pursue craftsmanship over convention, and in doing so helped shape the character of the region itself.
That same connection to place can be found at the Hitching Post. While others came to the valley to create something new, the Ostini family has spent decades preserving one of the Central Coast's oldest culinary traditions. Family-owned since the original Hitching Post opened in Casmalia in 1952, their signature steaks cooked over red oak remain as much a part of the Santa Ynez Valley as the vineyards themselves. Whether seated at the bar or in one of the wood paneled dining rooms, the restaurant feels comfortably unchanged in all the right ways.
An Impromptu Roadside Picnic to Admire Grass Mountain Covered in Poppies and Lupine
The seasons bring their own distinct character to the valley
Of course, no matter which vineyards, restaurants, or hidden corners you discover, the Santa Ynez Valley reveals a different personality with each season.
In spring, nearby Figueroa Mountain explodes with California poppies and purple lupine, transforming entire hillsides into a canvas of vibrant color. The display is among the most spectacular wildflower blooms in California and rewards those willing to venture a few miles beyond the vineyards.
Autumn offers a different kind of beauty. As harvest season arrives, the vineyards turn shades of gold and amber. The scent of fermenting grapes drifts through the air, tractors move steadily between vineyard rows, and wineries buzz with the excitement of another vintage taking shape. It is a season that feels timeless, connecting visitors to the agricultural traditions that have defined this landscape for generations.
The Santa Ynez Valley reminds me that luxury is not always found in distance or exclusivity. It is found in places with a genuine sense of purpose, shaped over generations by people who cared more about craftsmanship than convention. In the end, that's what keeps drawing me back.
As Santa Barbara locals and luxury travel advisors, Carlos Badini and I spend a great deal of time exploring the Santa Ynez Valley. We enjoy introducing our clients to places they might never discover on their own. Not simply where to stay or dine, but how to experience the valley in a way that feels personal, unhurried, and authentic.
If you're considering a visit, we'd be delighted to help curate a journey that's every bit as memorable as the destination itself.
As members of Auberge Resorts Collection's Preferred Partner program, we're pleased to extend exclusive amenities at The Inn at Mattei's Tavern. Beyond those benefits, our familiarity with the property allows us to help clients choose the rooms that best fit their preferences, and our relationship with the resort's leadership provides an added level of advocacy before you even arrive.
• Daily breakfast for two (up to a $90 value per day, excluding alcohol)
• A $100 resort credit per stay
• Room upgrade upon arrival based on availability
• Early check-in and late check-out
• A welcome wine amenity
Badini & Trent
Travel, without compromise.
