The Santa Ynez Valley: One of My Favorite Journeys
By Peter Trent
Founder & Luxury Travel Advisor, Badini & Trent
Courtesy of The Inn at Mattei’s Tavern
After traveling to more than forty countries across seven continents, people often ask me where I go when I need to escape.
The answer is surprisingly simple.
I drive forty-five minutes north from my home in Santa Barbara.
Crossing San Marcos Pass, the Pacific fades from view and the landscape begins to change. The marine air gives way to warm sunshine. Oak trees replace palms. Vineyards stretch across rolling hillsides. By the time I descend into the Santa Ynez Valley, it feels as though I have traveled much farther than the distance suggests.
No place better captures the story of Santa Ynez wine country than Mattei's Tavern.
Courtesy of The Inn at Mattei’s Tavern
Courtesy of The Inn at Mattei’s Tavern
The story begins in 1886 when Swiss immigrant Felix Mattei established a hotel, tavern, and stagecoach stop along the route connecting Santa Barbara with the Santa Ynez Valley. The arrival of the railroad transformed the property into the social heart of Santa Ynez wine country. Ranchers, travelers, merchants, and eventually Hollywood celebrities all passed through its doors. Through Prohibition, changing fortunes, and more than a century of California history, Mattei's remained woven into the fabric of the community.
A few years ago, the property entered a new chapter when Auberge Resorts Collection undertook a meticulous restoration. Rather than reimagining Mattei's, Auberge honored it. The historic buildings were preserved, the character carefully protected, and modern comforts thoughtfully integrated.
The result is something remarkably rare. The property feels luxurious without feeling manufactured. It feels as though it has evolved naturally over generations rather than having been created all at once. Rather than building a resort that could exist anywhere, Auberge burnished a historic landmark into the gem it is today.
In my view, it is the finest place to stay in the Santa Ynez Valley—not because it is the newest or the grandest, but because it feels inseparable from the story of the place itself.
Yet for all of its history and charm, Mattei's greatest asset may be its location.
Step outside and you are immediately immersed in Los Olivos, arguably the most charming town in California wine country. Centered around its iconic flagpole standing in the middle of Grand Avenue, Los Olivos feels delightfully authentic. Tasting rooms, boutiques, galleries, wine shops, and restaurants line the streets, all within a leisurely stroll of the resort.
Los Olivos rewards aimless exploration. One moment you may find yourself browsing an art gallery, the next sampling wine at a tasting room, and then discovering a hidden courtyard that invites you to sit for a while longer than you intended. It is one of those increasingly rare places where you glance at your watch and realize three hours have somehow slipped away.
J Woeste in Los Olivos
One of my favorite stops is J Woeste. Part garden shop, part gift shop, and part exercise in pure whimsy, it feels as though someone took an ordinary nursery and infused it with creativity, charm, and just the right amount of eccentricity. Even visitors with no interest in gardening often find themselves lingering among the displays.
A few steps away, Carhartt Family Wines offers one of the town's great gathering places. Its expansive patio has a way of bringing people together. Even if you arrive knowing no one, there is a good chance you will leave having shared a conversation with someone new. On weekends musicians often appear, glasses are raised, laughter drifts across the street, into corner parks and patios, and a celebratory atmosphere settles over Los Olivos.
What makes Los Olivos special, however, is its restraint. The town feels lively and festive without becoming commercial. There is energy here, certainly, but it never overwhelms the character that made people fall in love with it in the first place. In an era when many wine destinations seem increasingly curated and polished, Los Olivos remains refreshingly authentic.
For a deeper immersion, venture beyond town.
Demetria Estate remains one of my favorite experiences anywhere in Santa Barbara County. Reached by a winding drive through the hills above Foxen Canyon, the winery feels wonderfully removed from the world below. Guests are encouraged to bring a picnic and there may be no better way to spend an afternoon than sharing lunch while overlooking endless rows of vines and oak-covered hillsides. It is the kind of experience that reminds you that wine is ultimately about slowing down and enjoying where you are.
Courtesty Presqu’ile Winery
Presqu'ile offers an entirely different expression of Santa Ynez wine country. Named a “top Ten Most Beautiful” winery in California by Conde Nast Traveler, this stunning contemporary winery sits atop a hill with sweeping views over the vineyards. Their celebrated “Chef's Mezze Experience”, created by Executive Chef Julie Simon, pairs a beautifully presented shared lunch with a curated flight of wines, encouraging guests to slow down and linger. The food alone is absolutely worth the visit. Throughout the year, concerts, culinary events, and sunset gatherings transform the property into a warm and vibrant gathering place.
One of the reasons I return to the valley is that some of the most memorable moments are found between the destinations. The experiences that stay with you are often the ones you never planned. Some of my favorite afternoons begin in Los Olivos and simply unfold from there. A recommendation from a local, a road that looks interesting, or a tasting room that wasn't part of the original plan often leads to the most memorable discoveries.
Courtesy Foxen Winery
Foxen Canyon Road is a perfect example. Winding through vineyards, ranches, and rolling countryside, it offers the sort of scenery that reminds visitors why this region became one of California's premier wine destinations. Along the route sits one of my favorite landmarks in the area: the original Foxen tasting room, affectionately known as "the Shack." Equal parts roadside outpost and local institution, it serves as a reminder that great wine doesn't always require grand architecture or elaborate ceremony.
The same spirit can be found at Bob's Well Bread. Located in the tiny community of Ballard, just minutes from Los Olivos, Bob's has become a beloved institution. Fresh breads, exceptional pastries, and one of the region's finest breakfasts draw a devoted following of locals and visitors alike. The shaded patio encourages lingering, and few places capture the relaxed charm of Santa Ynez wine country more completely.
The Santa Ynez Valley's culinary reputation now rivals its wine culture.
In Los Alamos, Bell's has earned national acclaim and a Michelin star for its thoughtful interpretation of French-inspired cuisine rooted in the ingredients of California's Central Coast. Just across the street is Priedite Barbeque, a Thursday through Sunday pop up at Los Olivos Bodega. Highlighting California ranchero culture, they feature old school oak fired barbeque with some of the most delicious brisket, pork and sausage you’ve ever tried.
Back in Santa Ynez, S.Y. Kitchen continues to set the standard for relaxed wine country dining. Its combination of northern Italian influences, local ingredients, and warm hospitality captures the spirit of Santa Ynez wine country perfectly. For a more traditional Central Coast experience, the Hitching Post remains a beloved institution, where oak-fired grills and Santa Maria-style barbecue have drawn loyal patrons for generations. And just down the street from Mattei’s tavern is Bar Le Côte which has quickly become one of the most sought-after reservations, serving impeccably fresh seafood in an atmosphere that is sophisticated without ever feeling pretentious.
An Impromptu Roadside Picnic to Admire Grass Mountain Covered in Poppies and Lupine
The seasons bring their own distinct character to the valley
In spring, nearby Figueroa Mountain explodes with California poppies and purple lupine, transforming entire hillsides into a canvas of vibrant color. The display is among the most spectacular wildflower blooms in California and rewards those willing to venture a few miles beyond the vineyards. Even a roadside picnic rewards with amazing views.
Autumn offers a different kind of beauty. As harvest season arrives, the vineyards turn shades of gold and amber. The scent of fermenting grapes drifts through the air, tractors move steadily between vineyard rows, and wineries buzz with the excitement of another vintage taking shape. It is a season that feels timeless, connecting visitors to the agricultural traditions that have defined this landscape for generations.
The Santa Ynez Valley reminds me that luxury is not always found in distance or exclusivity. Sometimes it is found in a historic tavern that has welcomed travelers for nearly 140 years. Sometimes it is a leisurely lunch overlooking vineyards, a quiet drive through wine country, or an afternoon spent lingering over a bottle of wine with nowhere else to be.
Less than an hour from Santa Barbara, the Santa Ynez Valley offers something increasingly rare: the feeling that you have truly escaped.
As Santa Barbara locals, Carlos Badini and I are often asked about our getaways to the Santa Ynez Valley beyond the obvious recommendations. Whether you are looking for the finest luxury accommodations, a charming boutique inn, memorable winery experiences, exceptional dining, or hidden corners that most visitors never discover, we would be delighted to help.
As a preferred partner, we are also able to extend additional privileges at The Inn at Mattei's Tavern that are not available through traditional booking channels:
• Daily breakfast for two (up to a $90 value per day, excluding alcohol)
• A $100 resort credit per stay
• Room upgrade upon arrival, when available
• Early check-in and late check-out, when available
• A welcome wine amenity
There is so much more to share that will never make it into a guidebook. Contact us to curate a journey just for you that allows you to discover your own favorite things in the Santa Ynez Valley.
Badini & Trent Luxury Travel
Travel, without compromise.
